A PUNTER’S VIEW OF The Principal York, BY SAVOUR WRITER DAVE MACKAY
The Principal Hotel (now The Milner York Hotel) has been an institution in York since it opened in 1878, a year after the train station opened. It was owned by the railway until privatisation in the 1980s and by the time we stayed for our 1st wedding anniversary in 1995, it was still very grand but needed some TLC.
Fast forward to a few months ago, when we returned, and this ‘grand-dame’ of York offers a luxury setting for the modern traveller – with plenty of dining options, gardens, leisure and pool facilities or a place to stay while exploring Yorkshire’s capital.
The hotel has 155 rooms and suites with the premium rooms having views of the Minster or railway and the suites all have views of the Minster and gardens.
In an almost fateful twist, we were allocated exactly the same room that we stayed in all those years ago, so we were able to make a like-for-like comparison of then and now. And what a comparison it was.
The Rooms
The room, the Principal Suite, was almost unrecognisable from the room that we had stayed in. It, like the whole hotel, has had a total overhaul through award-winning interior architect Goddard Littlefair. It’s clear that it isn’t just a quick lick of paint but a careful restoration which blends the grandeur of late-Victorian architecture with more contemporary touches.
In the Principal Suite is a huge bed; a comfortable seating area with an almost obscenely large TV; a table and chairs; a walk-in wardrobe; a bathroom with a separate shower; and a separate toilet.
The room also has tea and coffee facilities, a decent-sized fridge and a safe. It overlooks the gardens and also has a view of the Minster which is close enough to be seen but not so close as to be woken by the bells.
Decor
The rest of the hotel has been beautifully furnished in neutral tones with soft, classical furnishings and some nice touches of modernity. A prime example is the glorious floating staircase. On our original visit, it had been adorned with various paintings of ‘the great and good’ but now each and every one of them has been replaced and a vintage mirror now gives the area a bright and airy feel. That feel carries on throughout the hotel and grounds.
The old dining room is now the garden room used for drinks, light bites and afternoon tea overlooking the gardens. The dining room is now situated in a large conservatory-style extension at the back of the hotel.
As far as location goes it is really difficult to see how it could be better. It is within yards of the City Walls and within easy walking distance of everything you could possibly want to do in York. Travel-wise, it is right next to the train station and for those who would rather drive there is a car park (with reduced rates for hotel guests) within the grounds and the train station’s car park is close by, too.
Facilities
For those of you who actually enjoy exercise, for I am assured that such people exist, the hotel has a pool, gym, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi – all of which are free to use for hotel guests. For the less energetic, a range of beauty treatments -through the hotel’s partner provider Calma York – are available.
One of the best things about York is that it has an abundance of places to eat, drink and generally be merry and even staying for a week wouldn’t be enough to do them.
The Principal York has plenty of options, too, with The Chapter House bar that serves craft beers, classic cocktails and a bar menu focusing on local produce.
In the gardens is ‘Thor’s Tipi’ which is well-known for being for being ‘the’ place to go for drinks at Christmas, but it’s now there in summer (until August 26th) and offers ‘luxe-Ibiza vibes’ as well as speciality cocktails and pub-style drinks. There is plenty of seating, some around fire pits and there are garden games such as a giant Connect 4 to keep the kids happy.
Overlooking the gardens is the suitably titled “Garden Room” which is open all day for drinks and dining, and it is the setting for the afternoon tea which we sampled. Top tip: if you’re going for afternoon tea, go easy on breakfast! Those who fail to heed that warning should be prepared to admit defeat and ask for at least two of the items to be boxed up to enjoy at home. Wherever you consume it there is an abundance of savouries and pastries and the mandatory scones with jam and cream and, seeing as we’re in Yorkshire not Devon or Cornwall you should feel free to go jam on cream or cream on jam without worrying about the locals shooting daggers at you.
Dining
Speaking of breakfast, that is taken in the Refectory Kitchen & Terrace which is in a modern conservatory addition to the back of the hotel. It is buffet style with both continental and cooked options with a range of cereals and fruit. It’s also a fine spot for watching those who have clearly made the very most of the refreshments at York Races, watching them stare at their plates of fried food, clearly fighting hangover Vs hunger.
The Refectory is also where evening meals are served. Local produce is very much the name of the game here with every effort made to source from York and the surrounding countryside. A duck liver tartlet with some excellent smoked duck was my starter and Mrs Punter went for the burrata which came with a salad which could most charitably be referred to as “generous” but more realistically referred to as “massive”.
I carried on the duck theme for the main which came with a delicious sake sauce and goose liver (but not fois gras). Mrs Punter went for the BBQ cauliflower steak which she assured me would mean I wouldn’t miss meat. I wasn’t going to risk it and carried on tucking into my duck. There were puddings on the menu but we had over-faced ourselves with sides so we passed on the puds and skipped to the rather excellent cheese board which was the definition of Yorkshire generosity and the chutney that came with it (local of course) was excellent.
A word as well to the staff who were, without exception, charming, welcoming and professional. Alex, our waiter for dinner was a joy and many thanks to him for the recommendation of the wine to go with our meal. We actually stopped off at the purveyor of wines on the way home and picked up a couple of bottles.
If you’re after a touch of luxury within touching distance of all of York’s attractions, then The Principal really does tick all the boxes.
For more information or to book, visit: theprincipalyork.com
