Jamaican-born Ryan Matheson brings more than 25 years of experience to his role as Executive Chef at The Brush Grand Café in Hoxton.

His career has taken him through some of London’s best-known hotels and restaurants, with a cooking style shaped by bold flavours, European influences and quality ingredients. Yet a career as a chef wasn’t originally part of the plan.

He explained that it was ‘a twist of fate’, and said: “I originally wanted to study hotel and resort management and my culinary lecturer sat me down after my first year and asked that I join the culinary programme and as the cliche goes… ‘the rest is history’.”

That change in direction would lead to a career stretching across more than two decades, including senior positions at Le Meridien Piccadilly, Park Plaza London Waterloo and Sea Containers Hotel.

Along the way, Ryan’s Jamaican heritage has remained an important influence, not only on the flavours he gravitates towards but on his understanding of hospitality itself.

“Hospitality is embedded into our culture. Our love of expressing ourselves through food and our pride in the complexity of flavours has definitely influenced the way I think. Heat, acidity, smoke, curing and umami forms the core of my cooking.”

His culinary education also included studying molecular gastronomy. While the techniques associated with that movement no longer define his cooking, the understanding behind them continues to play a role.

“I once thought molecular gastronomy would have been the future style of cooking that I would have adopted, but I was wrong, it gave me a much better understanding of the science behind cooking but the days of foams, fruit caviars and gels are behind me. Now, I focus on those everyday home-style flavours that we all love and this is shown throughout our menus at The Brush.”

Interview: Chef Ryan Matheson on Jamaican Flavours and Modern European Cooking

Of the many kitchens that have shaped him, one stands out. Ryan spent three years at the renowned Atlantic Bar and Grill, an experience he credits with influencing the chef he would become.

“I spent three years in that kitchen working alongside some fabulous chefs who were led by Chef Richard Sawyer – and he influenced my entire career. The drive, passion, sense of teamwork and need to deliver on customer expectations was at its peak in that kitchen.”

Today, those experiences come together at The Brush, where the menu looks towards Europe’s classic brasseries and grand cafés while firmly locating itself in contemporary East London.

“Whilst our menu is influenced by flavours from across Europe, our dishes draw inspiration from classic brasseries and grand cafés, which we then give a modern East London spin. For example, we have the Chicken Schnitzel with a mustard dressing, our Brat’dog with sauerkraut, and Ham & Cheese Croquettes with salsa verde.”

Developing that menu is very much a collaborative process. Inspiration might come from other chefs and restaurants, but Ryan also looks to the people working alongside him.

“I take inspiration from a wide range of chefs and restaurants, particularly those who champion seasonal ingredients and put a modern twist on classic European cooking. I’m also inspired by my team and the people I work with every day. We work closely together to develop and deliver a menu that’s creative, full of flavour and constantly evolving.”

One dish in particular captures the approach: The Brush’s Halibut Fish & Chips.

“Our Halibut Fish & Chips is a dish that I feel really sums up The Brush and my style of cooking because it takes a much-loved classic and gives it a more refined look. We use quality halibut as the centrepiece, paired with traditional elements you’d expect. It reflects my style of cooking that lets good ingredients take centre stage.”

That focus on ingredients extends across the menu, with seasonality helping determine what arrives on the plate throughout the year.

“Seasonality is very important to me when creating our menus, and I love using ingredients when they’re at their best. Seasonal produce brings more flavour and quality to each dish, and it also keeps the menu evolving throughout the year. We use ingredients such as asparagus, peas, tomatoes, herbs and seasonal seafood, with dishes that really allow each of them to shine when they’re in season.”

Ryan’s career has brought accolades including Future Leader of the Year and AA Rosettes, but his definition of success now stretches beyond awards.

“The industry is constantly evolving, and being part of that evolution is a big part of what success looks like to me. For me, that means a restaurant filled with laughter and joy, with guests genuinely enjoying the food we serve at The Brush. It’s also about passing on skills and knowledge to the next generation of young chefs, while continuing to learn and grow myself.”

And there is still plenty he wants to achieve. As The Brush establishes itself within Hoxton, Ryan wants its food to become increasingly connected to the character of the neighbourhood around it.

“The Brush is now part of the Hoxton community, and I’d love to see it become more rooted in the culture and history of Shoreditch by creating innovative and exciting dishes that reflect the area. Personally, I also want to continue inspiring young chefs to cook and develop together as a team. ”